24 April 2018
INSIGHT

Return of the Carré with new Cape Cod & Arceau

Posted on April 24, 2018 at 12:36 PM by

Originally seen (and somewhat unheralded) in 2010, the Hermès Carré H, a contemporary square timepiece created by architect Marc Berthier excelled with instant legibility and its Girard-Perregaux automatic movement. For 2018 Hermès Carré H returns slightly larger (38mm by 38mm) in a polished and micro-bead-blasted steel case and with a manufacture Hermès/Vaucher automatic movement. On the grey or black dial you’ll find right-angled guilloché work and facetted hands and numerals. Instead of the markers seen on the original Carré H, Hermes now adds Arabic numerals with tech-tilt (01, 02 etc.) that creates an entirely new look for the debut.

Hermès also expands its Cape Cod collection. One new version features a rhodium-plated dial, polished to create a mirror-like effect and coated with a precious translucent lacquer. The watch is available in two sizes and with a single or double tour Milanese mesh bracelet. Two other variations are also introduced, in Large Model version only, with a single or double tour étoupe or Malta blue strap. The dial of the first features a black gold treatment, while the second is blue lacquered.

Finally, Hermès accents its equestrian theme with the colorful 36mm Arceau Casaque, which refers to a jockey’s jersey. The dial, available in four colors, is crafted using champlevé, lacquer and transfer techniques. Hollows are first created in the dial base, then filled with lacquer. Inside is a quartz caliber.

CAPE COD
The Cape Cod watch was born in 1991 from the out-of-the-box mindset cultivated by Henri d’Origny. He had been asked to imagine a square watch, but he preferred rectangular ones. Based on a somewhat crazy idea – cutting the iconic “Anchor Chain” motif in two – he dared to combine shapes. A square embedded in a rectangle, the Cape Cod watch is magnified by its double tour strap that gives the watch an additional touch of originality and boldness. Cape Cod welcomes new versions. The first features a rhodium-plated dial, polished to create a mirror-like effect and coated with a precious translucent lacquer. It is available in two versions – Large Model and Small Model – with a single or double tour Milanese mesh bracelet.

Two other variations are also introduced, in Large Model version only, with a single or double tour étoupe or Malta blue strap. The dial of the first features a black gold treatment, while the second is blue lacquered. “Anchor Chain” motifs are applied to the dials of these two models – a detail that once again emphasizes the spirit of the Cape Cod, which is all about nuances and subtle discoveries.

Technical information for the Milanese bracelet model
Dial: Rhodium-plated and mirror-polished dial, coated with a blue-tinted translucent lacquer. Grey transferred Arabic numerals in an anthracite frame. Rhodium-plated hands.
Case: 316L steel. A square embedded in a rectangle. Large model (GM), 29 x 29 mm, lug width of 19 mm. Small model (PM), 23 x 23 mm, lug width of 14 mm. Imagined by Henri d’Origny in 1991. Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment. Water-resistant to 3 bar.
Strap: Milanese mesh bracelet in 316L steel, single or double tour.
Movement: Quartz, Swiss made.
Functions: Hours and minutes.

Technical information for the Malta strap model:
Dial: Blue lacquered or black gold-treated and polished dial, coated with a translucent lacquer. Applied “Anchor Chain” hour-markers. Rhodium-plated hands.
Case: 316L steel. A square embedded in a rectangle. Large model (GM), 29 x 29 mm, lug width of 19 mm. Imagined by Henri d’Origny in 1991. Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment. Water-resistant to 3 bar.
Strap: Malta blue grained or étoupe smooth calfskin, single or double tour, equipped with a 316L steel 17 mm pin buckle.
Movement: Quartz, Swiss made.
Functions: Hours and minutes.

CARRE H
In 2010, Hermès introduced the Carré H, a square timepiece created by Marc Berthier, with a modern aesthetic, designed for instant legibility. It now returns in a new style: Marc Berthier has enlarged the square by a few millimetres and opted for light effects, playing across the steel case with its polished and microbead-blasted finishes, on the dial with its right-angled guilloché work, and on the facetted hands and numerals. This perfectly balanced use of light harmoniously accentuates the clarity of the design, the softened edges of the square, the curved profile of the case, and the cylindrical crystal. Finally, the exclusive font of the numerals – making use of the zero – contributes to the new aesthetic equilibrium of this watch.

Technical information 
Case: Designer: Marc Berthier (2010). Case in polished and microbead-blasted 316L steel. Dimensions: 38 x 38mm, interhorn width 21mm, medium size. Sapphire crystal and case-back with anti‑glare treatment. Water-resistant to 3 bar.
Dial: Dark grey or black. Opaline guilloché centre, finely grained chapter ring, sunburst or opaline rim. Applied rhodium-plated hour-markers and Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova®. White transferred minute circle Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands coated with Super-LumiNova®. Yellow or red second hand.
Movement: Hermès Manufacture H1912 movement. Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made. Diameter: 23.3mm (10½’’’). Thickness: 3.7mm. 193 components, 28 jewels. Frequency of 28,800 VPH (4Hz). Power reserve of 50 hours. Circular-grained and snailed mainplate, bridges and oscillating weight satin-brushed and adorned with the signature H pattern.
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds.
Strap: Natural or black Barénia calfskin. Pin buckle in microbead-blasted 316L steel, 21mm.

AECEAU CASAQUE
When Henri d’Origny created the Arceau watch in 1978, he revisited the aesthetic codes of the round watch. Eager to escape the confines of its classicism, he fitted it with asymmetrical lugs in a shape inspired by stirrups. Four decades later, the story continues. The case of the Arceau Casaque becomes an equestrian manège, an arena marked with curved hoof prints on the sand. Outlined against this background is the Cavale motif. The dial is crafted using champlevé, lacquer and transfer techniques. Hollows are first created in the dial base, then filled with lacquer. A matt tone-on-tone transferred chevron motif lends the final touch to this colourful composition. Their bright tones bring to mind the horse-head pawns of a classic French children’s board game. Yellow, red, green or blue: which will prove the fastest in flouting time?

Technical information 
Case: Designer: Henri d’Origny (1978). Case in 316L steel. Dimensions: 36mm diameter, interhorn width 18mm, Medium size. Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment. Water-resistant to 3 bar
Dial: Rhodium-plated base, champlevé Cavale motif, lacquered in red, yellow, green or blue. Matt tone-on-tone transferred chevron motif.
Movement: Quartz, Swiss made. Functions. Hours and minutes.
Strap: Electric blue, vertigo green, capucine red or lime smooth calfskin. Pin buckle in 316L steel, 16mm.



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