by Vasken Chokarian

VASKEN’S 2019 CHOICES

Wherever I go people ask me “what is your best watch?” or “which is the best watch to buy?” Be it in meeting people or receiving their emails, I always get those questions hence my only answer to everyone – to you all – is there is not such thing as Best Watch.

If you wish to call it Best Watch, then the “best watch” is the one you are wearing on your wrist. I find it illogical to select “Best Watches” since every single watch has its own art, beauty, technical and skillful presentation, brought to us thanks to the inheritance of a magnificent and historic innovations of genius and artistic talents. I find it illogical to name timepieces “Best Watch” because you simply cannot!!! Can you call Picasso’s art “Best Painting” ignoring Monet, van Gogh, Rembrandt, Vemeer and the rest? Of course you cannot because it is not only illogical but it is irrelevant and impossible.

I am pleased to present you my choices selected from various watchmakers’ 2019 creations covering as many styles and categories of watches, which I hope will guide you and assist you in your next purchase of watches, from Rivoli Boutiques, A. Seddiqi & Sons Boutiques or the boutiques near you.

HARRY WINSTON – Emerald Automatic 33mm
The Emerald Automatic 33mm is an absolute must-buy for all women who seek elegant luxury to accompany them in their daily lifestyle. Harry Winston expands the elegant Emerald collection with the incorporation of larger timepieces. The distinctive octagonal case shape and unique dial were inspired by Mr. Winston’s favourite diamond cut: the emerald cut. Contemporary yet classic, this stylish companion is available with an automatic or quartz movement.

Previously featuring only petite, very feminine frames, the Emerald collection now welcomes a larger, 33mm case available in 18-karat white and rose gold (seen here as my choice). The bold octagonal architecture of the case is highlighted by beveled edges and a lustrous shine. Like a faceted gemstone, the sloping sides on the dial add depth and volume. Taking the emerald motif a step further, the classic gold Harry Winston logo at 12 o’clock is balanced by a beveled date window at 6 o’clock.

The Emerald Automatic timepieces offer the hours, minutes, seconds and date, and are presented in two colorways; rose gold with a silver opaline with sunray satin-brushed finish and white gold with a gradient blue hue that darkens toward the edges. Another distinguishing feature of the Emerald Automatic is the chapter ring for enhanced precision. In keeping with its elegant nature, the timepiece features hour markers that are crafted in either rose or white gold, faceted and applied to the dial.

Fitted with a high-end Swiss mechanical automatic movement, the Emerald Automatic has a generous power reserve of 72 hours, long enough to keep perfect time through the weekend. The underside of the case offers a view of the 18-karat white gold skeletonized rotor and luxury finishes, including Côtes de Genève, rhodium plating and circular graining on the movement. Like all Harry Winston mechanical timepieces, the movement features a flat silicon balance spring to ensure superlative performance over the years.

BLANCPAIN – Fifty Fathoms Automatique Titanium
Upon its release in 1953, Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diver’s watch, immediately appealed to professional divers and soon thereafter to their civilian counterparts. It has since become the archetypal watch in this genre. As relevant as ever six decades on, its main original technical and aesthetic characteristics, revisited and complemented by a date in the 2000s, are now teamed with a titanium case.

In 2019, Blancpain is offering a new version of this Fifty Fathoms Automatique model which combines its ebony-black color with a satinbrushed titanium case. Known for its robustness as well as its high resistance to impacts and corrosion, titanium also has a low density that makes it particularly light. This major advantage, which distinguishes it from steel, has enabled Blancpain to produce a large-diameter model, offering all the technical guarantees of a diving instrument without having to feel them weighing on the wrist. Divers will undoubtedly appreciate this advantage, especially during dives requiring already extensive sports equipment, as will urbanites wishing to wear a generously sized yet airy timepiece on a daily basis.

Measuring 45 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 300 meters, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique in titanium features a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel, fitted with a scratchproof domed black sapphire insert. For enhanced visibility in all circumstances, its markers, dial hour-markers and hands are made of Super-LumiNova®, a coating that strikes an ideal contrast with the sunburst black face of the watch. The sapphire crystal case-back provides an admirable view of the movementBlancpain , the 1315 caliber, notably endowed with an optimal five-day power reserve enabled by the use of three series-coupled barrels housing high-performance springs. Its silicon balance-spring protects it from the negative effects of magnetism without the need to isolate it behind a metal cage.

ROLEX – Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42
Rolex is extending its Yacht-Master range with a new 42 mm model, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. The Yacht-Master 42 is fitted with a Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic that perfectly complements its black lacquer dial. Created from 18 ct white gold, this new watch heralds the arrival of this precious metal on a Yacht-Master model. The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the Oyster case. Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 42 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display. The broad hands and hour markers are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

This new model is equipped with calibre 3235, a first for the Yacht-Master range. Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master 42 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification.

On the Yacht-Master 42, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in matt black ceramic. Its raised graduations and numerals are first moulded into the ceramic and then polished. The first 15 minutes are graduated minute-by-minute to allow time intervals to be read with great precision. The bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

The Yacht-Master 42’s Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid piece of 18 ct white gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case and is protected by an integral crown guard. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date.

BREGUET – Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
This new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 that Breguet has opted for an extra-thin three-millimeter thick skeleton design for its tourbillon movement, is an undertaking that is as much technical as it is artistic with emphasis on craftsmanship, of which the watchmaker is at the forefront. There are objects whose intrinsic quality is a source of true wonder. The new Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is undoubtedly one of those. The extreme finesse of its 581 caliber has already propelled Breguet to bold technical feats in its previous creations. The design of the tourbillon in particular had to be entirely rethought, which led to the creation of a unique architecture. Now the House of Breguet is going even further, removing almost 50 per cent of the material from this movement, without compromising the build. This skeleton design, within an 18-karat gold caliber that literally plays with the limits of what is possible, highlights the true craftsmanship of Breguet watchmakers. Engraving, engine-turning, and anglage add to this to create something truly outstanding.
The extra-thin 581 caliber is a masterpiece of watchmaking. With a thickness of three millimeters, it is one of the finest self-winding tourbillon movements in the world.

A feat of technical craftsmanship that required a series of often complex adjustments. For instance, the rotor was placed on the periphery of the plate, saving on thickness while at the same time preserving a clear view of the mechanism. The tourbillon, for its part, has benefited from a complete redesign. The titanium carriage engages directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base, and, what’s more, the silicon escapement has been given a distinct angled shape, something that considerably saves on space. A very unique structure, of which Breguet is the only series manufacturer.

PATEK PHILIPPE – 5172G-001 Chronographe
The first chronograph of classic architecture for men endowed with a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Patek Philippe, Ref. 5170 (2010) appeared successively in yellow, white and rose gold, and in platinum. The manufacture has now redesigned this emblematic model coveted by collectors, endowing it with a new, fully polished white gold case with round guilloched pushers and three-tier lugs. Its subtle vintage touch is underscored by a cambered sapphire crystal “box” glass extending across the bezel.

The dial is also sporting an all new look with a blue background and contrasting white gold applied Arabic numerals highlighted with a luminescent coating, white gold baton style hour and minute hands with pointed tips, also luminescent, a sandblasted central chronograph hand and a white, transfer printed minute counter with its tachymeter scale to which must be added the two railway track scales encircling the small seconds and the chronograph’s 30-minute counter. All has been planned to ensure perfect legibility, whether in daylight or the dark.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement is notable for combining traditional architecture (column wheel, horizontal clutch and manual winding) with six patented innovations. The latter include optimized tooth profiles, improved adjustment of gear penetration, and self-adjusting reset hammers. It also boasts several technical features inspired by the same concern for functionality and performance, such as the instantaneous 30-minute counter. Its beauty and lavish finissage (including bridges with chamfered and polished edges and Geneva stripe decoration) may be admired through a sapphire-crystal case back.

The new Ref. 5172G-001 in white gold is worn on a hand stitched calfskin strap in a shade of navy blue to match the dial, with a white gold fold over clasp. It replaces the previous Ref. 5170P-001 in platinum.

HARRY WINSTON – Midnight Yozora Automatic
Harry Winston proudly unveils the Midnight Yozora, a new timepiece design, presented in a 42mm case for men, and a 39mm case for women. The result of a novel partnership with the Japanese company Nakaya, the dial is a miniature work of art, created entirely by hand using ancient Japanese decorative techniques. An ode to New York’s night sky, the timepieces are fitted with a Swiss automatic movement and come in a special presentation box, along with a matching Nakaya fountain pen.

Yozora is the Japanese word for night sky, and the inspiration behind the dials of these breathtaking newcomers to the Midnight collection. Uniting urushi lacquer, raden mother-of-pearl, and the ‘sprinkled picture’ art of maki-e, the dial of the Midnight Yozora recreates the famous arched entrance to Harry Winston’s Fifth Avenue Salon, in New York City. Light radiates in all directions from the doorway and meets an inky black night sky punctuated with iridescent mother-of-pearl and illuminated by Harry Winston’s insignia emerald-cut diamond at 12 o’clock.

The Midnight Yozora timepieces are the result of Harry Winston’s partnership with Nakaya, a Japanese fountain pen company that specializes in bespoke creations. Known as the finest pen brand in the world, Nakaya, whose company motto is “for your hand only”, calibrates and adjusts every detail to match the owner’s unique writing style. A small team of highly skilled Japanese artisans creates each pen entirely by hand.

Both the 42mm and 39mm models are presented in 18-karat white gold cases from Harry Winston’s Midnight collection. The 39mm model is set with 91 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and lugs, while the 42 mm model features a solid, polished gold case. The Midnight Yozora creations are presented with a matching Nakaya fountain pen and delivered in a beautiful handmade bamboo box. Mirroring the decorative techniques and color schemes employed on the dial, the Nakaya pen is a fitting companion to the timepiece and comes in a miniature kimono pouch for protection.

JAQUET DROZ– Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic
Sheathed in black ceramic, boasting a dial with blued steel screws and white gold indexes, and worn on a blue canvas strap, the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic by Jaquet Droz solidifies its modern, masculine identity. Designed over two and half centuries ago, the Grande Seconde by Jaquet Droz never ceases to amaze. Marrying every facet of its time and era, this ever-evolving piece reinvents details and finishes with each variation, to both surprise and astound.

Its “Skelet-One” skeleton version, presented in 2018, today, returns with a new feature that gives it added modernity: a ceramic case. With a diameter of 41.5 mm, it’s in perfect harmony with the Grande Seconde Skelet-One’s open movement structure, featuring a black coating that intensifies its power and modern, masculine character. Its straight lines contrast with the ceramic case’s skillful finishing, with a satin-finished top just like its lugs. In contrast, its polished sides foster a play of light that is amplified by a double sapphire “glass box” on the top and bottom, offering the largest possible opening onto the skeleton movement. Watch lovers will notice that the movement plate stretches all the way around the case which itself does away with the casing ring. With this new construction, the gear train is entirely suspended and fixed to the skeletonized bridges that cross over the movement. For this new Skelet-One Ceramic version, the indexes are also made of 18-karat white gold. Vertically brushed, the hour circle catches every ray of light, ensuring perfect readability. As for the grande seconde dial, it is made from sapphire to offer an unobstructed view of each of the movement’s details. With the same objective of total transparency, the 18K white gold oscillating weight has been entirely skeletonized to avoid masking the slightest detail of the caliber, which makes a circular revolution around the case. The watch is worn on a blue canvas bracelet.

OMEGA – Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph bicolor
The recent makeover of the iconic Seamaster Diver 300M has given the collection a dramatic new look – defined by many of OMEGA’s most modern materials and technologies. This year, a new selection of chronograph models were released, including this model in steel, gold and ceramic. The 44 mm chronograph is built with a stainless steel case. Its bezel is crafted from 18K Sedna™ gold with a black ceramic ring and OMEGA Ceragold™ diving scale. The conical helium escape valve and crown are also 18K Sedna™ gold, while the integrated strap is presented in black rubber.

The black ceramic dial is laser-engraved with the iconic Diver 300M waves. It includes a date window at 6 o’clock, as well as raised indexes that are filled with Super-LumiNova. All hands are 18K Sedna™ gold, except for the central chronograph seconds hand which is gold coated.

A new feature of this chronograph collection is the inclusion of ceramic pushers. The black colour of this model complements the dial and adds another sleek touch to the design.

Through the sapphire crystal, you can view the OMEGA Master Chronometer Calibre 9900 inside.

CHOPARD – L.U.C Flying T Twin
With the new L.U.C Flying T Twin, Chopard unveils its first calibre equipped with a flying tourbillon. This technically and aesthetically sophisticated timepiece is distinguished by a hand-guilloché gold dial, impeccable proportions and an ultra-thin case in ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold. This extremely refined 50-piece limited series is certified by the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark. While the L.U.C Flying T Twin houses an exceptional movement, it stands out first and foremost for the finesse and refinement of its dial. With a case measuring just 7.2 mm, it is the ideal complement for a Sea Island cotton shirt and a deliberately mismatched baby cashmere jacket. While undeniably chic and elegant, this new model in the L.U.C collection does not confine itself to a purely formal approach, thanks to its colour contrasts mingling the warmth of rose gold with anthracite grey.

Nestling inside its ultra-thin 40 mm-diameter case in 18-carat ethically certified “Fairmined” rose gold is a new calibre developed specifically for this timepiece. This chronometer-certified movement also features a stop-seconds device which is extremely rare on a tourbillon and enables perfectly accurate time-setting.

LONGINES – Master Collection
Longines reaffirms its watchmaking expertise with the addition of new creations that strengthen one of its flagship lines, The Longines Master Collection. Powered by a new self-winding movement developed exclusively for Longines, these timepieces are characterized by a moon phase indicator and a refined aesthetic, creating a balance between technical excellence and classic elegance.

Symbol of Longines’ watchmaking expertise, The Longines Master Collection perfectly embodies the values of excellence and elegance that have contributed to building the brand’s reputation across the world. Since this line of models all powered by mechanical movements was created in 2005, it has over the years added new variations and sophisticated features that showcase the watchmaking tradition so dear to the brand.

Today, Longines introduces new models featuring a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock circled by an Arabic numeral date ring on which a hand points to the current day. The mechanism is powered by a new movement developed exclusively for the brand – the L899 calibre. In its eternal quest for elegance, Longines has designed a sleek dial for these new pieces combined with timeless design, thus creating a subdued and harmonious aesthetic.

Available in two sizes (40 and 42 mm in diameter), the new models of The Longines Master Collection are available in a range of different dials: black barleycorn with painted Roman numerals, silvered barleycorn with painted Arabic numerals or blue sunray with applied indexes. The 40 mm version is also available in a version with diamond indexes for a refined result.
The new models of The Longines Master Collection are offered with either a stainless steel watch strap or a black, brown or blue watch strap to match the different dial colours.

TUDOR – Black Bay Bronze
The famous Black Bay Bronze model, winner of the “Petite Aiguille” prize at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and a symbol of Tudor’s naval heritage, comes in a new slate-grey model with shaded dial in 2019. Following the introduction of the first bronze model, a Black Bay with a chocolate brown dial, Tudor continues to explore this rare bronze material with its characteristic patina. A new colour scheme based on slate grey now embellishes the dial and bezel of this imposing divers’ watch, whose aesthetics change over time and whose naval inspiration can be found in every detail. The impressive Black Bay Bronze also offers high technical performance thanks to its Manufacture Calibre MT5601.

The central feature of the Black Bay Bronze model is its 43-millimetre bronze case, an aesthetic reference to the brass used in old ships and other diving equipment. This “living” metal, a high-performance aluminium-copper alloy used particularly in naval engineering for submerged parts that need to be highly resistant to corrosion, will produce a subtle, unique patina on every watch case, based on the wearer’s habits. In addition to a highly functional appearance, in line with the world to which it pays tribute, the Black Bay Bronze presents entirely satin-brushed finishes that guarantee homogeneous development of the patina.

The Manufacture Calibre MT5601 that drives the Black Bay Bronze model measures 33.8 millimetres, the widest diameter of all Tudor’s calibres. It displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions, and its appearance and finishes are typical of Tudor Manufacture calibres. Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations.

Finally, with a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it.

HUBLOT – Classic Fusion Orlinski
Playing with light and shade, the latest Classic Fusion Orlinski series is sculpted in the aesthetic signature of artist Richard Orlinski, including its faceted dial. The 40mm case is available in titanium or King Gold with or without diamond settings. No fewer than six Classic Fusion Orlinski watches have been created as a continuation of the artistic and technological alliance between Richard Orlinski and Hublot, following on from the Aerofusion Chronograph and Tourbillon. Symbolising the characteristic folds in his often monumental works, edges, bevels and facets have been miniaturised with horological precision to create mirror effects on the dial. The understated strap in matt black rubber creates an arresting contrast, all the more pronounced on four of the six models whose diamond-set cases create a jewellery effect.

What better than the stone with the highest refractive index to reflect the mirror-polished finish typical of the plastic artist’s work? On four of the timepieces, the bezel – a dodecagon which has characterised the creative partnership since 2017 – is set with 54 diamonds and sits on a case which is either fully set with 210 diamonds or partially set with 112 diamonds. Free from precious stones, the other two watches exude a more subtle light, with the accent on the pure lines, the graduated light and shade of the materials, and the sharp-angled forms characteristic of Richard Orlinski’s sculptures.
A lover of all kinds of art and a vocal advocate of its accessibility to all, Richard Orlinski creates intelligible works and installs them in open-sky settings (Courchevel, Deauville, etc.). Orlinski works to decompartmentalise the modes of artistic expression and challenge convention. As the creative force behind these six Classic Fusion Orlinski watches, here he addresses new audiences, women and lovers of timeless stones or sculpture.

GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL – Senator Chronometer Tourbillon, Limited Edition
With this world’s first Senator Chronometer Tourbillon – Limited Edition, Glashütte Original shows that a tourbillon can still serve its original purpose. Second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent ensure that the minute and second hands are synchronised, allowing the time to be set with great precision: the tourbillon’s rotating cage stops the moment the crown is pulled, and since the second hand is mounted on the cage, it also stops immediately. The watchmakers Glashütte Original welcomed the challenge to find a way to stop the flying tourbillon “in full flight” and to combine it with the ability to set the time precisely. Their solution is as well engineered as it is innovative. Glashütte Original has applied for two patents on the complex construction. To set the time the crown is pulled out.
This triggers a vertical clutch that locks the tourbillon cage, and with that the balance, in its current position. If the crown is then pulled out further and held in position, the second hand advances clockwise to zero, and the minute hand advances to the next full index. In the process, a rotational damper ensures a smooth movement. Now the crown can be released and – while the small second remains at zero – the time can be set precisely to the minute while the crown is still pulled out. At the desired point in time the crown is pressed back again, which releases the seconds hand, thus ensuring that minutes and seconds are synchronised perfectly. This version has also been fitted, for the first time, with shock protection on both sides of the flying tourbillon.

The high rate precision of the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon – Limited Edition has been confirmed by an independent testing institute. In addition, a silicon balance spring offers greater protection against magnetic fields and changes in temperature. The manual winding calibre 58-05, which beats at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, has a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound, indicated by the display at 9 o’clock.

BREGUET – Reine de Naples 8918
The House of Breguet adds fresh sparkle to the Reine de Naples 8918 model with a touch of crimson. This composition in white gold is illuminated by opaline mother-of-pearl and diamonds. This new Reine de Naples 8918 is enhanced with captivating red. The delicate oval shape of the case – slightly elongated – is a free interpretation of the watch formerly created by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline Murat. The Breguet Arabic numerals appear in garnet on the white mother-of-pearl hours chapter. The alligator leather strap reflects this vibrant hue. Created in the watchmaking tradition of Breguet, the Reine de Naples 8918 watch beats to the rhythm of a self-winding manufacture caliber.

The talent of the artisans of the House of Breguet becomes apparent in the center of the watch dial, with a clou de Paris guilloché pattern engraved in white gold then powdered and silvered. Delicate edging emphasizes the circumference of the timer. Fine blued Breguet hands indicate the minutes and hours in red numerals. Designed with a touch of imagination, the contrasts between the different shades and finishes of the dial improve its readability, an issue dear to A.-L. Breguet’s heart. Finally, the individual number of the timepiece appears at the top of the hours chapter. If the owner so wishes, Breguet will record her name in its archives, which have been kept since the late eighteenth century.

A ribbon of 117 brilliant-cut diamonds highlights the white-gold bezel, as well as the dial flange. Placed at 6 o’clock, a pear-shaped diamond punctuates the hours chapter. The brilliance of the setting extends to the folding buckle, illuminated by 26 diamonds.

The Reine de Naples 8918 comes with a white-gold case with finely fluted sides. A new color touch has been added to 4 o’clock: a cabochon-cut ruby on the equally fluted crown. The sapphire caseback reveals the self-winding manufacture caliber 537/3, which has a power reserve of 45 hours. The Reine de Naples 8918 by Breguet is a joyfully intense interpretation of the styles of a legendary collection.

BLANCPAIN – Villeret Date
Blancpain is enriching its extensive collection of women’s models with the addition of a calendar timepiece. Often associated with a moon phase, the date is presented here alone in a window subtly integrated within the chapter ring. The result is a model graced with a beautifully balanced dial of which the readability is accentuated by its generous size.

When it comes to feminine watches, Blancpain is undoubtedly a force to be reckoned with. The Manufacture indeed played a pioneering role in the history of women’s timepieces, with the 1930 introduction of the first automatic wristwatch for women. Until then widely considered an essentially masculine field of interest, the art of watchmaking thus took on a universal dimension. The acquisition of Blancpain by Betty Fiechter – a loyal employee of Frédéric-Emile Blancpain –, who became the first female President and owner of a watch brand, strengthened Blancpain’s commitment to the development of ladies’ watches.

Building on this unique heritage, Blancpain is now unveiling a new women’s timepiece in its Villeret line. Equipped with a date, it stands out for its refined aesthetics and curved details. The date window is oval in shape, a novelty within the collection. The successively displayed numerals have also been redesigned and feature a delightfully curvaceous font. These characteristics are naturally complemented by the key attributes of the Villeret collection, such as the rounded double-stepped bezel and cut-out sage leaf-shaped hands for the main indications. The proportions of this new model have also been carefully determined so as to guarantee perfect harmony between all its constitutive elements. The 33.2 mm-diameter case, available in steel or red gold, is set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds. As is customary in the Villeret collection, the steel version has a white dial and the red gold version has an opaline dial, both set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

H. MOSER & CIE – Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue
The Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue model features round shapes with classic accents that recall Moser watches from the early 20th century. Its steel case features tapered lugs and a notched crown. But behind this piece’s apparent classicism hides thoroughly irreverent aesthetics, revealed through the Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue’s electric blue dial – the most popular Moser dial – which adds a dynamic touch to the entire design. The traditional-style railway minute track appears in white to give a very modern contrasting result, while the sword-shaped hands are coated with SuperLumiNova®. The distinctive appliqué numerals use Globolight®, an innovative material that can assume any shape and any colour, and contains SuperLumiNova®. To further break with the traditional codes, the strap in raw leather features white stitching to add one last finishing touch to this creation. It is a way for H. Moser & Cie. to say: “This tourbillon is anything but boring. This Haute Horlogerie model draws on the so-called sports watches of the 1900s. It is a traditional model in a steel case, but it blurs boundaries and is impossible to sum up in a single word. This creation breaks with the status quo, but is still timeless.”

Visible behind the skeletonised bridge of the one-minute tourbillon beats the HMC 804 automatic calibre, designed, developed and produced entirely by H. Moser & Cie. Powering this movement with a three-day power reserve, the oscillating weight transfers the energy to the barrel via a bi-directional pawl winding system which reduces the time required to fully wind the watch. The oscillating weight is skeletonised, revealing the mechanism beneath. A marvel of ingenuity, this movement is equipped with a double flat hairspring designed and produced in-house. To simplify the after-sales service, the tourbillon is an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated separately to the movement via a simple “plug and play” system.

URWERK – UR-111C Black
Once you have seen it, it is impossible to get the UR-111C Black out of your mind. It seems deliberately designed to mesmerise. At first glance, it is the fiery contrast of the orange markings against the dark case that captures the imagination. Then the case itself. You can almost feel its balanced and fluid lines moulding to your wrist. There’s one certain thing about the UR-111C Black. You’ve never seen anything like it before. The grooved case in black-coated steel and titanium curves along its ample length and width. The curved sides are held by transversal screws in half pipes. And what’s that roller in the middle for? Or the lever along the side of the case? Nothing is obvious, all is intriguing.

The case had to be built around the unprecedented construction of the UR-111C Black’s movement, which put the indications at various and seemingly peculiar positions on the face. Thus, the glass plate indicating seconds alone, two different displays of the minutes on rollers, indications at the bottom of a sculptured case measuring 46mm long and 42 wide.

The two functions of winding the watch and setting the time have been separated. The short, knurled crown of the ordinary watch has been transformed into an accessible long cylinder that you roll with a thumb or finger to wind the watch. Fully wound, the UR-111 Black keeps going for 48 hours. To set the time, you swing out the lever on the right of the watch. This switches the roller to time-setting mode. Rotate the roller in either direction to set the time on the other cylinders. There are of course no hands on the UR-111C Black.

With the watch on your arm the indications are on the side of your wrist so that you can tell the time at a glance without having to turn your wrist. With your arm in its natural position when you walk, sit or drive, the time is always in your line of sight. URWERK has arranged the time display in three zones shielded by curved sapphire glasses.

CVSTOS – Challenge III Chronograph-S
Refinement, performance, efficiency and elegance. The four fundamentals that distinguish the bold aesthetic footprint of CVSTOS, from the design to the realization of its timepieces. While the aesthetic trend of watches is emerging in the neo-retro movement, CVSTOS looks ahead and unveils the new version of the now-classic “Chronograph Challenge”. After unveiling its predecessor in 2013, the time has come to give birth in its third phase of development Challenge III Chronograph-S.

Constantly searching for balance and performance, CVSTOS opts for a decidedly sporty and contemporary style at the same time offering a new timeless version of this flagship piece of the brand. Keeping the same features as its predecessor, the Challenge III Chronograph-S includes a CVSTOS-577 automatic chronograph movement with high efficiency, characterized by a new bimetallic rotor (Tungsten 88 & Titanium Grade 5) whose inertial characteristics have been optimized ensuring a better acceleration of the oscillating weight.
CVSTOS has chosen a return to its roots and updated the famous ‘S’ line (‘Sport’) characterized by a small seconds hand with three branches, by a new power reserve display which is read through a counter and 2 charge indicators. This new three-dimensional display with ergonomic reading is enhanced by the famous sword shaped hands of its beginnings, whose specific design gives it readability and visibility day and night. This refined style gives to this three-dimensional structure a perfect visibility on the functional elements of the movement. The sword-shaped hands, the barrel shaped rim including the tachymetric scale, the indexes alternated by applied numerals enhanced by a treated inlay of luminescent material contribute to a great clarity and readability of the entire dial. Therefore, the hour display takes centre stage without confusing the reading of the indication of the chronograph functions magnified by 2, finely diamond finished, oversized counters.

PANERAI – Luminor Due
In keeping with the genetics of the Luminor Due family, Panerai remains unconventional in its attitude and its predisposition. Leading the way, on one hand there are three new models sharing the brushed titanium of the case and the blue satiné soleil finish of the dial. On the other hand there are three updated models of varied character, embodying a consistent array of style and versatility. All of them are united in being fitted with mechanical Manufacture movements and quickly changeable straps.

In terms of materials, a Luminor Due 38mm (PAM00926) appears for the first time in titanium. As for combinations, a Luminor Due – 42mm (PAM00927) is the first model of its size to associate a titanium case with an automatic mechanical movement. So far as solutions are concerned, the Luminor Due GMT Power reserve – 45mm (PAM000964) is Panerai’s first “45mm” watch, and it has an interchangeable strap with the Quick Release system. Distinctive refinement, expressed in a more evidently informal character, is however the key to interpreting the three new Luminor Due watches perfected in the 38 and 42 mm sizes and offered with a stainless steel or GoldtechTM case. Common to all are the radically revised dial designs, sophisticated and elegant with printed Arabic numerals and numbers while fully realising Panerai’s iconic level of visual language. The new style is complemented by the wide choice of personal leather straps which is available.

The Manufacture movement is strictly mechanical, rigorously following Panerai’s demanding specifications, but from now on it will exclusively have automatic winding. This requirement is dictated by practical considerations, the need to reconcile the watch’s physical and aesthetic design with the challenge of dimensions, the main characteristic of the collection. This was the reason behind the introduction of the new P.900 Calibre with its thickness of 4.2mm, one of the thinnest automatic movements produced at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel.